Top 5 Problems Chevy Silverado Truck 2nd Generation 2007-14

In this video, we're gonna be going over the top problems for the second-generation Chevy Silverado.

So, the second-generation Chevy Silverado year range is from 2007 to 2013. Now, there's nothing wrong with this truck. Every vehicle has problems, we're just going over the common ones for this vehicle. Number one, engine reduce power light on your dash or check engine light with a code P2135 which is a throttle body issue. There could be other throttle body codes as well, but that's the most common. Your throttle body is located right here. The throttle body is gonna control the airflow that goes into the intake into the engine. And when you step on the accelerator, that's gonna open up the throttle blade, when you let off the accelerator, it's gonna close it.

So, there's a motor in there that controls the blade to open, but there's also two sensors and what the two sensors do is the PCM is gonna monitor those two sensors to make sure where the throttle blade is. And if those sensors don't agree, computer doesn't like it, it sets that code. There's always that possibility. It could be a wire or a connector, but most of the time it's the actual throttle body and it's the sensor on the side. To replace it, you just pull the snorkel off, there's some nuts that hold it on. Take that, disconnect the connector, put the new one on, put a new gasket on, put this back on and reprogram it and you should be good to go.

Number two, the brake light switch. Not only can your brake light switch cause the rear lights to stay on or not work at all, but it could also cause some other problems like your cruise control may not work or you might have an ABS light on. The brake light switch is connected to the brake pedal assembly up top there. There is a screw that screws it in. There should be a clip on there. Take the clip off, you can slide it off. There's a connector with four wires on it, there could also be a connection issue. You always wanna check your wires and your connections. But for a lot of times, that's the problem.

Number three, steering wheel position sensor fault. When you're driving down the road, the vehicle actually has a sensor at the base of the steering column and it monitors where the steering wheel position is and there's also a yaw sensor which monitors how the vehicle is tracking down the road. Those two sensors work together to figure out when you're slipping or to modify anything on the vehicle. That has to do with the stability system. So, if you have a service stability light on, chances are you probably have a bad sensor or if you got in an accident and the steering wheel is crooked when you're going down the road, you're probably gonna get that same light. So, keep in mind whether that's going on or you might need the sensor itself. That sensor is located right here at the base of the steering column. It is a little bit on the tricky side to get this out. You can't really do it in the car, you have to take the whole steering column out. But if you take your time, it's actually pretty easy. Again, remember always check your connections and your wires. Make sure that's good and when you take the steering column out itself, make sure the steering wheel is straight before you take it out, make sure the wheels are straight. You don't want the steering wheel to spin while it's out because you could mess up the clock spring in the steering column.

Number four, the steering intermediate shaft. It's located right here. Now, the steering rack itself is connected to the frame of the vehicle and the steering column is connected to the cab of the vehicle. Now, you have this intermediate shaft that telescopes in and out. And when it does that, sometimes it makes noise. Sometimes they wear, there is grease in there. Some of them have grease, some of them don't have grease, but that causes a noise and it's very annoying when you turn the wheel and you're driving over bumps, you can hear that go in and out. Sometimes you could take those out, re-grease them. It's probably only gonna last about 5,000 miles and then it's gonna be making noise again. It'll be like a clunk or a bump noise when you're going over a bump. But the best thing to do is just replace it.

On the inside of the cab, it's located right here. There is a universal joint attached to it. A lot of times you wanna check if this is making noise. Just grab this, try to rock it up and down. Sometimes the shaft bearing at the base of the column is bad, but that's pretty rare. Most of the time it's just the intermediate shaft. To perform this job, you wanna make sure the steering wheel's straight and you wanna lock the steering wheel so it doesn't spin so you don't break the clock spring while you're doing it. Take this nut off and then the bolt out up top and then take the nut and bolt out from down below and you should be able to telescope it down and then it's gonna slide out. Inside the cab, take the new one, slide it back the way the old one came out.

And number five, the door handles. Not only the outside door handle but also the inside door handles. All right. Let's talk about the outside door handle first. A lot of times when you go to grab this, if you grab this too close to this side, this part of the door handle where it's fastened to the door actually breaks off. The plastic is on the cheaper side and it'll break, but on this vehicle, it looks good. But that's pretty easy to replace. You just pull the inside of the door panel off and just take some of the bolts out. It's good to go. Let's talk about the inside door handle. These often break, you won't be able to get out of the car. You should still be able to get in from the outside. It's always a good idea to take the panel off and just check the cables, make sure the latch is working properly. Up to a certain point, you couldn't get just the inside door handle, you had to buy the whole panel, but now they make a kit and we actually sell it at 1aauto.com. Take the panel off, take the old door handle out, put the new one in. You're good to go.

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